SuncreenAllDay @SuncreenD

If you're based in the United States or Western Europe and interested in bespoke tailoring, I have some trunk show announcements for you. This time, there's something for women. The term "Italian" is often thrown around to describe sleek, youthful tailoring. But in fact, "Italian" describes a diverse set of tailoring practices. In the north, you have Milanese tailoring, which tends to be relatively sharp and angular, made with a slightly stiffer construction than the rest of the region. In Florence, the tailoring is a bit softer, distinguished by a dartless front (all of the shaping is achieved through a hidden underarm dart). And in Naples, you have the softest of all, a style shaped by Vincenzo Attolini in the early 20th century, when he sought to create a more comfortable style for Italy's warmer clime. Sartoria Solito is a small, family-owned tailoring business in Naples run by a father-and-son team (Gennaro and Luigi, respectively). Both are cutters skilled in making the distinctive Neapolitan cut. That means minimal padding through the shoulder (just 1.5 ply of shoulder padding, which is just enough to smooth out the line). There's a haircloth chest piece and a full canvas through the body, but not the fuzzy domette that British tailors typically use. And, of course, the distinguishing mark of Neapolitan style: a dart that runs from about the breast point to the hem, rather than stopping around the pockets. The result is a soft garment that wears more like a cardigan than a traditional English jacket. Since Neapolitan tailoring has little structure, it also tends to sit closer to the body. Although it's no where near as slim as Italian ready-to-wear lines (most of which bear no semblance to true Italian style). The Solito cut is very classic, but is a little slimmer to give it a sense of youth. They also do a very springy lapel roll, which is the result of skilled handwork. Consider the Solitos if you like classic tailoring, but want something a little softer and more youthful. Given their light construction, their garments are also well-suited to warmer climates. Every once in a while, a woman will reach out to me to ask for a tailoring recommendation. I'm hesitant to give this advice for two reasons. First, I'm not a woman and have no experience buying womenswear. Second, I believe clothing is a type of social language. Just because I know something about the language of menswear doesn't mean that it translates easily into womenswear (just as you can't import English grammar rules into Japanese). But after seeing some garments Caroline Andrew made for a friend's wife (pictured above), I was interested enough to follow her work online. Over the years, I've seen her make a few bespoke suits for women. And while I still hold no expertise on this subject, I personally liked what I've seen. While talking to Caroline and other cutters who have made for women, I've come to appreciate two things. First, cutting for a female body is difficult, as you have to contend with more complex curves. Second, styles and tastes may differ. If you go to a menswear tailor and order a women's suit, you may end up getting something that looks like it was cut for a man (and may not suit your personality). Caroline strikes me as someone with enough experience making clothes for women that she can ask the right questions, be sensitive enough to your answers, and create something that suits your body type and personality. Of course, she also makes for men — that still constitutes the majority of her business. But if you happen to be a woman and want a bespoke suit, Caroline seems like a good candidate. My usual disclosure: This is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I receive nothing from making these announcements — no money, kickbacks, freebies, discounts, or whatever else. I make these announcements simply because I love craft-based work and would like to see tailors be able to earn a living. It's my pleasure to connect them with customers. If you have questions, please reach out to them directly, as I'm not their representative.

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The average 30-year fixed mortgage rate today: 6.27% That’s the calendar-year low so far for 2025 Same day last year: 6.11% (the calendar-year low for 2024) ---------------- 10-year treasury yield: 4.01% Spread today: 226 bps

While everyone focuses on the Charlie Kirk story, this deserves at least equal attention: the U.S. military, in collusion with the South Korean government, maintained during decades a system where tens of thousands of women were forced into sexual servitude for U.S. soldiers, many of whom were minors. This isn't speculation: the South Korean supreme court ruled in 2022 that the government had illegally operated these brothels, in a way where the women were subjected to debt bondage and unable to leave. In fact, as per the New York Times (nytimes.com/2025/09/08/wor…), "all the women [in this system] were held in debt bondage," so they were all, effectively, sex slaves. The scale of it was so insane that the economy around these brothels (bars, etc.) was estimated to make up about 25% of South Korea's GDP during the 1960s and 70s (lemonde.fr/en/united-stat…). Sordid detail: if one of these women developed a STD, she would be placed into quarantine facilities that US soldiers referred to as "Monkey Houses," (pictured below 👇) because of the screams of women demanding to be let out (koreanquarterly.org/features/welco…). The women also had to wear numbered badges or tags, like commodity products. More than 100 of these women have now filed a landmark lawsuit against the U.S. military to hold it accountable as “the real culprit” in that state-sponsored sex trade. The women however, under agreements between the US and South Korea, cannot sue the U.S. military directly - only their own government. So, perversely, even if the court finds the U.S. military was "the real culprit" in this system of sexual slavery, it's South Korean taxpayers who will have to pay for that.

AFP News Agency @AFP

10 months ago

More than 100 South Korean women forced to work as prostitutes for US soldiers stationed in the country file landmark lawsuit u.afp.com/SdEU 📸 A building slated for demolition that was once called a "monkey house", a clinic for sex workers hired to serve US soldiers

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AI circle of money :: 1. $NVDA sells GPUs to $ORCL .. Oracle uses to power its data centers 2. Oracle builds cloud on those GPUs 3. Nvidia rents compute back via signed deals from Oracle Nvidia gets recurring revenue from hardware sales and cloud services without owning all the data centers. Oracle turns capex (buying GPUs) into opex revenue by renting compute to Nvidia, OpenAI, and others.

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BOOM: Payrolls revision -911K, biggest on record!

I prefer this format

Acre @Acre108

10 months ago

There is no word in English that means someone is 30% sure something will happen

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Exhibit B of clown world economy: BLS waves a magic wand and makes nearly 1 million jobs disappear from the historical data

If your current smartphone is fully functional, I highly discourage purchasing this. Rechargeable batteries use cobalt mined by the men, women, and children of Congo working in horrific conditions and paid the equivalent of a few dollars a day. npr.org/sections/goats…

Dexerto @Dexerto

10 months ago

Apple have announced the iPhone Air, their thinnest ever phone

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All the narratives are shifting...buckle up 🧈🍵s "The national housing market reached a balance of five months of supply—the first summer to do so since Realtor. com® began tracking this data nine years ago" Link in reply

Ray Dalio’s reply on Reddit when asked what’s the most important decision you can make

Peppers change their names when dried

Only 18% of US individuals earn more than $100,000, per FORTUNE.

Look at those weekend dips, followed by a huge fall at the end of the school year. I guess OpenAI is mainly a school cheating/learning tool.

Maze @mazeincoding

11 months ago

what the freak happened to openai june 6th

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An incredibly well written column that connects 1) how we have constructed suburbs; 2) pedestrian deaths; 3) the criminalization of parenting; and 4) the isolating manner in which kids are raised.

BREAKING 🚨: U.S. Housing Market Home Sellers outnumber Buyers by more than 500,000, the largest gap ever recorded 👀

Redfin: U.S. housing market now 508,715 more home sellers than homebuyers That’s the most home sellers have outmatched homebuyers in over a decade, according to Redfin

today i learned that there are actual people irl who get genuinely upset if they catch you using chatgpt. like they view it as a serious moral failing in certain circles

Interesting observation.